top of page
Wood Frame of House


Importance of Framing- Blueprint Understanding:  First, have a blueprint of your project. Review the project blueprint or plan for a full understanding of the layout, room dimensions, and any unique specifications that may affect the framing process. Stud Placement:  Verify the placement of studs. For most residential interiors, they should be 16 inches on center. Misplacement can lead to structural instability and create difficulties when fitting the drywall. ​ Stud Quality:  Inspect the studs for quality. They should be straight, with no significant warps, bows, or twists. Imperfections in the studs can cause the drywall to be uneven. ​ Square Corners:  Ensure the corners are square. Out-of-square corners can create gaps and misalignment when installing the drywall. Use a large carpenter's square or the 3-4-5 rule to check this. ​ Level and Plumb:  All surfaces must be checked for level (horizontal surfaces) and plumb (vertical surfaces). Walls or ceilings that aren't level or plumb can cause the drywall to be wavy or uneven. ​ Framing Inspection:  Perform a comprehensive inspection of the entire frame for any damage or rot. Structural integrity is key for safety and the longevity of the construction. Any damaged frames must be replaced. ​ Blocking and Backing:  Ensure that blocking or backing has been installed in areas that will require additional support, such as for cabinets, heavy fixtures, or handrails. Header and Footer Inspection:  Inspect the top and bottom plates (header and footer). They should be straight, level, and securely fastened. Any discrepancies can cause the entire wall to be misaligned. ​ Cleanliness:  The framing area should be free of debris, dust, and protruding nails or screws that might interfere with the drywall installation or pose safety hazards. ​ Framing for Ventilation:  In areas prone to moisture like bathrooms, ensure the framing allows for proper ventilation to prevent future issues with moisture and mold behind the drywall.

Drywall Installation

1. Prepare the area: Ensure the ceiling framing or strapping is in place and properly aligned. Clear the area of any obstructions or debris that could interfere with the installation process. 2. Measure and cut the drywall panels: Measure the width of the ceiling from one end to the other, perpendicular to the framing or strapping. Transfer those measurements onto the drywall panels, marking the dimensions accurately. Use a tape measure and a straightedge (such as a T-square) to guide your cuts. Score the front paper of the drywall along the marked lines using a utility knife, and then snap the panel along the scored line. Cut through the back paper with the utility knife to separate the pieces. If needed, cut holes for recessed lights, vents, or other fixtures using a drywall saw or hole saw. 3. Install the first panel: Start in one corner of the ceiling. Lift the first drywall panel into position, ensuring that it is perpendicular to the framing or strapping. Have someone assist you in holding the panel while you secure it. Use a drill or screw gun to drive drywall screws into the panel, placing them every 12 inches along the edges and every 16 inches in the field of the panel. Sink the screws slightly below the surface without breaking the paper. 4. Continue installing panels: Place subsequent panels tightly against the previous ones, ensuring there are no gaps between them. Stagger the seams by starting the next row with a half-panel or by ensuring the seams don't line up vertically. Use a drywall rasp or utility knife to trim panels as needed to fit around corners, vents, or other obstacles. Maintain a consistent gap between panels (typically 1/8 inch) to allow for expansion. 5. Secure and reinforce the panels: Once all the panels are in place, check for any loose or wobbly panels. If you find any, add additional screws to secure them firmly. Drive additional screws along the edges and field of the panels to reinforce their attachment to the framing or strapping. These steps will get you started with the installation of drywall on the ceiling, ensuring that the panels are properly aligned and secured to provide a solid foundation for the next steps in the process.

Custom Curved Bulkhead with recessed lighting

Drywall Taping

drywall taping on a curved bulkhead with two small drop down bulkheads to create a detail for the built in cabinets

Drywall Taping: Drywall taping is the process of applying joint compound to the seams and screws/nails in the drywall panels to create a smooth, seamless surface. Here are the basic steps involved: 1. Prepare the joint compound: Start by mixing the joint compound to achieve a smooth and workable consistency. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the specific type of joint compound you are using. 2. Apply the joint compound: Use a drywall taping knife to apply a thin layer of joint compound over the seams between the drywall panels. Press drywall joint tape into the compound, centered over the seam, and smooth it out with the taping knife to remove any air bubbles or excess compound. Ensure that the tape is firmly embedded in the compound. 3. Cover the screws or nails: Apply a small amount of joint compound over each screw or nail indentation, also known as "mudding" the screws or nails. Smooth out the compound with the taping knife, feathering the edges to create a seamless transition with the surrounding surface. 4. Repeat the process: Allow the first coat of joint compound to dry completely. Apply subsequent coats, feathering each coat wider than the previous one. Smooth out the compound and ensure seamless transitions between the layers. Allow each coat to dry before applying the next. 5. Sand the joints: Once the final coat of joint compound is dry, sand the joints using fine-grit sandpaper or a sanding block. Sand lightly to achieve a smooth and even finish, being careful not to damage the drywall surface. Remove any dust or debris after sanding. Corner Bead Installation: Corner bead is a metal or vinyl strip used to protect and reinforce the corners of the drywall. Here's a general guide for installing corner bead: 1. Measure and cut the corner bead: Measure the length of the corner where you plan to install the corner bead. Cut the corner bead to the appropriate length using tin snips or a hacksaw. Ensure that the corner bead is long enough to cover the entire corner. 2. Apply joint compound: Apply a thin layer of joint compound to the corner where the bead will be installed, using a taping knife. Make sure the compound is smooth and even. 3. Install the corner bead: Press the corner bead firmly into the joint compound, aligning it with the corner. Use drywall screws or nails to secure the corner bead, placing them every 6 to 8 inches along the bead. Sink the screws or nails slightly below the surface. 4. Embed the corner bead: Apply additional joint compound over the corner bead, using the taping knife to embed it in the compound. Ensure that the corner bead is completely covered and that the compound is smooth and feathered at the edges. 5. Feather and blend: Feather the joint compound out from the corner bead, gradually blending it with the surrounding surface. Use the taping knife to achieve a smooth transition between the corner bead and the adjacent drywall. Plastering: Plastering involves applying a plaster compound to create a smooth and textured finish on the drywall surface. Here's a brief overview of the process: 1. Prepare the plaster: Mix the plaster compound according to the manufacturer's instructions. Ensure that it has a workable consistency and is free from lumps or air bubbles. 2. Apply the plaster: Use a trowel or plastering knife to apply a thin layer of plaster to the drywall surface. Spread the plaster evenly, covering the entire area you are working on. Keep the pressure consistent to achieve a smooth finish. 3. Skim and smooth: After applying the initial layer of plaster, go back with a clean trowel or plastering knife to skim and smooth the surface. Remove any excess plaster, and ensure that the surface is even and free from imperfections. 4. Texturing (if desired): If you want to add texture to the plastered surface, you can use various techniques such as stippling, sponging, or swirling. Experiment with different tools and methods to achieve the desired texture. 5. Drying and sanding: Allow the plaster to dry completely according to the manufacturer's instructions. Once dry, lightly sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper or a sanding block to achieve a smooth finish. Remove any dust or debris after sanding. Remember to follow appropriate safety precautions, wear protective gear, and refer to manufacturer guidelines for specific products and techniques during the taping, corner bead installation, and plastering processes.

Sandpaper is commonly used to sand drywall manually, but if you prefer to use sanding machines, sanding poles, or sanding sponges, here's an explanation of how to sand drywall using various tools: 1. Prepare the area: Before you begin sanding, clear the room of any furniture or items that could obstruct your movement. Cover any remaining items with plastic sheets to protect them from dust. 2. Use proper lighting: Adequate lighting is crucial for spotting imperfections in the drywall surface. Position bright, angled lights or work lamps to cast shadows across the surface, which will reveal any uneven areas or ridges that need sanding. 3. Manual sanding with sandpaper: If you choose to sand manually, fold a sheet of sandpaper into thirds, grit side out. Hold the sandpaper with a firm grip and sand in a circular or back-and-forth motion, applying even pressure. Start with a coarser grit (such as 120 or 150) to remove major imperfections, and gradually switch to finer grits (such as 180 or 220) for a smoother finish. Change the sandpaper as it becomes worn or clogged with dust. 4. Sanding with a sanding pole: A sanding pole, also known as a drywall sanding tool, allows you to sand large areas more efficiently. Attach a sheet of sandpaper to the sanding pad of the pole, ensuring it is securely in place. Adjust the length of the pole to a comfortable working height. With the sanding pole, move in long, sweeping motions, using light to moderate pressure. Overlap each pass to ensure even sanding. Start with a coarser grit and progress to finer grits as needed. 5. Sanding with a sanding machine: A sanding machine, such as a drywall sander or an orbital sander with a vacuum attachment, can speed up the sanding process. Choose a sanding screen or sanding disc appropriate for drywall. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for attaching the sanding medium and connecting the vacuum (if applicable). Move the sanding machine in a smooth, steady motion, applying light to moderate pressure. Keep the machine moving to avoid creating uneven patches or gouges. 6. Sanding with a sanding sponge: Sanding sponges are useful for sanding corners, edges, or small areas. They come in various grits and can be wet or dry. Hold the sanding sponge with a firm grip and sand with light pressure, using circular or back-and-forth motions. Sanding sponges are flexible, making them suitable for contoured or uneven surfaces. 7. Dust control: Drywall sanding produces a significant amount of dust, so it's essential to take appropriate measures for dust control. Consider using a shop vacuum or attaching a dust collection system to your sanding machine or pole. Periodically stop sanding to clean the dust from the surface and surrounding areas to maintain visibility and prevent dust buildup. 8. Inspect the surface: After sanding, use a clean, dry cloth or brush to remove any residual dust. Examine the surface under proper lighting conditions to identify any remaining imperfections or uneven areas. If needed, repeat the sanding process to achieve a smooth and uniform finish. Remember to wear safety goggles, a dust mask, and protective clothing when sanding to shield yourself from dust particles. Additionally, be cautious when using sanding machines, as they can be powerful and aggressive. Practice proper technique, use consistent pressure, and avoid sanding too aggressively to prevent damage to the drywall surface.

Sanding Drywall

curved bulkhead finished with drywall and painted ready for a custom cabinet below
curved drywall bulkhead with custom built cabinets below

Finishing Touches

Once your drywall is finished, it is important to add the finishing touches. Pairing high quality materials and finishings to your newly finished drywall project will ensure your space is your own. This includes flooring, trim, doors and cabinets.

Drywall Tips & Tricks

Installation Tips

Cut your drywall 1/4 inch shorter than the full length that is required. Install strapping perpendicular to joists or rafters to reduce movement and future drywall cracks from forming. Use a proper drywall drill. A drywall drill spins at 6000 RPMs while a cordless drill spins between 3000 and 5000 revolutions per minute. A drywall drill will also help you control the depth of the screw with its countersinking sleeve. Reduce butt joints: minimize the amount of seams by using larger size drywall. This includes length of drywall 8 foot, 10 foot, and 12 foot sheets. For 9 foot ceilings it is a good idea to use 54 inch drywall on the walls. Use the proper amount of screws. While it is better to add more screws, there is a point where the addition of more screws starts to deteriorate the integrity of the drywall. A 4x8 sheet of drywall requires 50 screws +/_

Taping Tricks

Pre-fill your seams, especially larger gaps, before you start taping. For large gaps you should use an excellerant to speed up the drying time and prevent cracking. Taping is very difficult to try without experience. If this is your first time expect to fail and make a huge mess in the process. Always start with the ceilings. To install drywall tape you first apply a smooth coat of taping mud to the ceilling seam. Place a managable size piece of tape over the mud (plaster). Allow the tape to absorb some of the moisture of the plaster before presing the tape tight to the wall. The more mud you remove while taping, the tighter the joint will be for coating. Angle your putty knife to squeeze out most of the plaster from behind the tape. As the taping mud dries the tape is pulled towards the drywall surface. It is important to let the tape dry before coating. Coating also required a high level of skill that takes years to master. If you are new, make sure not to leave too much plaster as it will need to be sanded flat.

Sanding Tricks

Wear proper safety equipment, drywall dust sucks. Goggles, masks, and a suit will help your project run smoothly. Use a small light to cast shadows on the plaster. You can find high points in the wall by shining a light on the seams. Using a sanding machine with a vacuum attachement makes a huge difference in the amount of dust in your renovation. A hepafilter vacuum is an important part of the sanders arsenal. A negative air filter or an air scrubber will also help get rid of unwanted dust particles in the air.

Drywall Mistakes

Drywall installation is a common DIY project that many homeowners undertake to save money or customize their living spaces. While it can be a rewarding and cost-effective endeavor, there are some common mistakes that people make during the process. Here are a few DIY drywall mistakes to be aware of:

1. Improper measurements: One of the most critical mistakes in drywall installation is incorrect measurements. Failing to measure accurately can result in uneven seams, gaps, or oversized or undersized panels that don't fit properly. Always take precise measurements and double-check before cutting or installing the drywall.

2. Insufficient planning: Inadequate planning can lead to a host of issues during drywall installation. It's crucial to plan the layout, including the placement of electrical outlets, switches, and other fixtures, to avoid having to cut through or patch the drywall later. Plan for any necessary framing adjustments and ensure you have the right tools and materials before starting the project.

3. Poorly secured panels: Properly securing the drywall panels to the studs or ceiling joists is essential for stability and preventing sagging or cracking. Inexperienced DIYers may not use enough screws or nails, leading to loose or wobbly panels. It's important to follow the recommended spacing for fasteners and ensure they penetrate the framing adequately.

4. Inadequate joint preparation: Drywall joints must be properly prepared and finished to achieve a smooth and seamless surface. Some common mistakes include using too much or too little joint compound, applying uneven coats, or neglecting to feather the edges for a gradual blend. Insufficient joint preparation can result in visible seams or cracks once the walls are painted or textured.

5. Rushing the drying process: Patience is key when it comes to drywall installation. Rushing the drying process can lead to various problems, such as cracking, shrinkage, or an uneven texture. Allow ample time for the joint compound to dry between coats and follow the manufacturer's instructions for drying times and conditions.

6. Neglecting to sand properly: Sanding is a crucial step in achieving a smooth and professional finish. Failing to sand the joint compound adequately can result in rough patches, visible imperfections, or uneven texture. Take the time to sand the walls and joints thoroughly, using progressively finer grits of sandpaper for the best results.

7. Ignoring safety precautions: DIY drywall installation involves working with heavy panels, sharp tools, and potentially hazardous materials. Neglecting safety precautions can lead to accidents or injuries. Always wear protective gear such as gloves, safety glasses, and a dust mask. Use proper lifting techniques when handling drywall panels, and exercise caution when working on ladders or scaffolding.

While DIY drywall installation can be a fulfilling project, it's essential to approach it with the right knowledge, tools, and attention to detail. If you're unsure about your abilities or encounter complex issues, it's always best to consult a professional to ensure a successful outcome.

bottom of page